Tuesday, December 28, 2010

A new blog!

Just a short note to provide a link to my new blog, which is all about stuff that interests me. That could be anything - but much of it is also related to sourdough bread. 

If you are interested in learning more about making sourdough bread at home, I hold Sourdough 101 Workshops in the Hunter Valley of NSW, as well as occasionally at other locations. Check out upcoming dates and locations here:

http://sourdoughbaker.com.au/index.php/sourdough/category/12-breadmaking-classes

Happy Sourdough Baking!

Sunday, August 29, 2010

SourdoughBaker Cafe in Newcastle begins

The fledgling SourdoughBaker Cafe takes shape

As the last few and very infrequent blog posts promise, a new woodfired bakery in Newcastle NSW is slowly being born. Slowly? Well, yes, it has been rather slow. But it's also been very steady.

The Story So Far

We didn't have the luxury of having capital, you see - just a group of individuals with a desire to create something that Newcastle most probably would never see otherwise - a cooperatively run, ecologically sustainable food production business, which drew its ingredient mainly from local food producers. The business plan was being put together mainly by my friend Mark Carruthers and myself, al fresco, as it were.

After having lots of long and involved brainstorming sessions on the footpath outside Mark's old cafe, Raw Alchemy, in the heart of downtown Newcastle west, I started to get a bit enthusiastic about bakeries again, after having sworn I would never again be a bakery owner. The simple fact is, as I tried to explain to Mark, bakeries, from first hand experience, are relentless and unforgiving on everyone who gets involved with them, particularly owners, head bakers and everybody's families. They tend to run all day and all night, and when something goes wrong, the owners tend to find themselves sorting it out. Day and night. As owner and head baker for Quinton's Artisan Bakery in Leura for more than ten years, I know about the effects of sleep deprivation over a long term, and I was not keen to go there again.


But Mark convinced me (or perhaps I convinced myself) that this one would be different. A cooperative would own and operate it, drawing on my experience to make it a true Artisan Bakery. Sourdough bread would have to be its focus. And, having had some positive experiences with cooperatives in the past, I very much liked this idea. I had also worked through, in my mind and on countless scraps of paper, the perfect set up for a small bakery and cafe; over many, many night shifts at our Leura bakery, I had most of the practicalities established as to how to physically do it. The added challenge, to design it right from the start as a super eco friendly, wood fired 'sole' bakery (no bread tins, just cooking straight on the sole of the oven) just added to my growing excitement.  'Simple' became our mantra. Thus the 'bucket and bag' idea - a bucket of water and a bag of flour. That's the recipe, and that everything had to be this simple. Minimal machinery, no spreadsheets, customers who actually eat the bread themselves, simple but great tasting cafe style food, no employee (just members), and above all else, transparency and honesty as fundamental principles of the operation of the business. This lent itself to the idea that we should also aim to facilitate education and learning about artisan bread and food production, as well as use the whole exercise as a license-able technology so that other businesses could eventually adopt our ideas as cost effective solutions to a carbon cost world.


The problem we faced was how to get capital - having been financially ruined by the last bakery, I was in no position to dig deep. Mark had his business, but no capital either. 

A cooperative structure would enable us to gather capital from small investors, as well as human capital from people who were interested in high quality seasonal food production and artisan baking.


It's all about quality and not necessarily quantity, though as demand grows we aim to meet it. But one step at a time.

Small is Good

You won't find this 'bakery' producing a hundred different standard bakery items. It makes and bakes only sourdough bread and selected pastries. The bread is no ordinary sourdough either - it is made completely by hand, using my own 21 year old starter as its levain; it is slow proofed over a total of 36 hours, is finally 'sole baked' (on the stones of the oven floor without a tin) in a purpose built, hand made woodfired oven.


Paul's handmade snags
The small cafe makes slow cooked food based on simplicity and refinement, with seasonality, 'in house' preparation and the use of local produce as its centerpieces. Espresso is of course the final piece of the triple bill, with the same appreciation of the true barista's art evident in the beverage section. This is a true cafe bakery.

There's a bit more of the story of the cafe so far at www.sourdoughbaker.com.au. or you can follow the link here.


The birth of Bertha the Woodfired Oven

Bertha, naked as the day she was born...
The idea was to build a bakery with an oven which utilised third world technology efficiently in the first world. We had very limited capital (none) and a desire to show other ways of doing things which could be both commercially viable and environmentally friendly. We wanted to get off the grid too, because we thought that the grid was actually impeding progress towards a sustainable energy system being developed, with its automatic channeling of all users into one or two fuels - gas and/or coal for electricity. I looked around, and there are some really cutting edge heating technologies which are also relatively green, but these were costly and required specialist preparation to use - so I decided that a good old woodfired oven was the way to go. However, our oven would have to be capable of replacing numerous pieces of kitchen equipment if it was going to build a case for itself in a real life commercial kitchen.

We incorporated a hotplate into the design, which makes it very useful for a cafe. The firebox for the oven and hotplate will also power a hot water system, thereby eliminating three or more pieces of common kitchen equipment - the oven, the cooktop and the instant hot water system. All of these appliances use lots of resources which are not really costed, as they are supplied by the grid automatically.

At present, our design handles just the cheffing and baking, which takes about 10 to 12 hours a day. The 'Cafe Bakery Oven Prototype' Craig Miller and I are developing is big, beautiful and I think aptly named as Bertha. She's had over 300 kilos of insulation added to her 500 kilo steel body since we've installed her, and she's starting to take up serious space in our smallish kitchen. Our chef, Paul West, is getting the unenviable job of crash testing the hotplate while I get to test the bakers decks. Craig gets to engineer a way out of our many issues, and it's very much a work in progress.

Having said all that, Bertha bakes damn fine bread, as well as roast lamb, pastries, cakes and biscuits. On the hotplate, she handles a mean eggs and bacon, garlic mushrooms in butter, vegetable fritters, sourdough toast and the odd burger or two - over breakfast and lunch each day. Already she's a very satisfactory unit, with improvements being made each week to make her faster and easier to use. We are also gradually 'tuning' her to eat less wood.

The Newcastle Food Producers Coop

SourdoughBaker Cafe is to be the retail and production facility for something bigger - the Newcastle food producers cooperative. This cooperative is being formed as an alternative to the standard business structure of a company or partnership. It is intended to become a sustainable business model, based on the artisan guilds of old.

The production of good, nourishing food needs to be a labour of caring, not an assembly line peopled with unskilled and unvalued workers. The vision for our cooperative is about putting our attention into nourishment rather than assembly lines.

As such, the principles of a 'guild' of food producers apply - attention to craft, application and enhancement of skill and technique, dedication to quality and a local knowledge come into play. So too does the appreciation and understanding of important things like slow food, organic agriculture, knowing and dealing with local food producers - these are all necessary prerequisites for our cooperative to function for its intended purpose.

These guilds were also places of technological innovation, and of learning. As such, our coop will broaden its charter to include both of these elements - to find innovative ways to utilise limited resources, and to teach and be a place for learning the crafts of fine quality food production.

I will expand on the cooperative model in future posts, as there has been a lot of interest locally in what we are doing here, and how it will work practically. And of course, like any community based enterprise, we are currently busy introducing ourselves to the community, and they to us.
Stay tuned. I have a lot of news to get out to you....

So much, in fact, that I've started a new blog dedicated to the subject of the SourdoughBaker Coop. Guess what? It's called 

www.sourdoughbakercoop.blogspot.com Have a look, and follow!

Thursday, February 18, 2010

No News from Newcastle?

That's the thing about blogging. I know that it's better to blog daily, but I see no point spelling out the minutae of one's life and interest, unless it's actually interesting.

I've never understood the point of writing about writing either. Or filming about filming, for that matter. Perhaps writing about filming, or filming about writing. Cross cultural pollination is certainly something to engage with from time to time. But blogging seems to be about brief and often, rather than the meaning of the subject being tackled. All hair and no meat. Certainly no bones.

There is a persuasive argument that this may be making us more shallow thinkers. I see it (the blogging/social networking phenomenon and so on) as chatting over the back fence - meaningless, but necessary, if you want to keep an eye on the neighbourhood...

But I also want to know stuff. I want to know what's happening, what my friends are doing, what might be of interest to me. This tells me that I am not alone, that I am part of something bigger, even though in actual fact I am simply observing something else, neither bigger or smaller, just another thing in the universe of things... Thanks to the internet, we have become watchers. Nonetheless, watching 'watching' is becoming a broader science in itself...

So it's in that vein that I add to this blog (on a fairly infrequent basis, I know) - and this is my point: if there is no news, why not just shut up shop till there is?

What's New?

This post is all about news from Newcastle, where there is about to be a new bakery. Not just any bakery. This one will be one heck of a beasty - kinda low tech/high tech, fully sourdough and fully organic. The word for this place is 'simple'. If it isn't needed, it's taken away. If it requires energy, it should be examined to find a way for it to require less. If it requires thought, it might well be suspect. Everything in this bakery is simple to understand - for the baker and the baker's clientele.

This bakery runs on the 'bucket and bag' recipe system - a bucket of water and a bag of flour. Sourdough starter drives all the dough, and the signature of the starter (in this case my own 20 year old sourdough starter) is through everything the bakery produces.

The oven is woodfired - but not like any other woodfired bakery oven you've ever seen. This woodfired oven is actually closer to an Artisan Bakery's deck oven, only it's a fully efficient woodfired technolgy powering it.

Did you know that the most efficient transfer of energy is through flame? Thus, a furnace is an excellent means of transferring energy from one medium to another. In our case, we can use flame to heat thermal mass. This is then used to bake bread, blanch grains, roast meats, reheat food, boil and heat water, and eventually preserve or dry other perishable foods. All using the same heating cycle, the same fuel. This fuel can also be used to power turbines, which in turn can power refrigeration and other energy using devices.

So, it's possible to do all these things with a simple woodfired oven. As energy becomes more costly, far greater efficiencies will need to be achieved. The technology I am working with traces the natural cycle of burning to extract the maximum potential from an energy persepctive. There may be many other technologies which emerge to become useable. But right now, this particular technology is pretty interesting. So I'm going to give it a bit of a go!

This is an interesting and surprising world.

Why would you invent the internet? It made no sense to anyone else but Tim Berners-Lee at the time, but invent it he did. Or organise it so it actually worked, anyway.

He actually built upon the shoulders of others before him. But his gift remains something that has transformed a society in a very short time.

My thoughts are more humble, but equally obsessive. I keep thinking of a way to produce food cheaply and efficiently, while remaining highly environmentally friendly and efficient. I simply work from the principle that food will be harder to produce, and production will become more expensive. People will need to consider more efficient means of feeding themselves.

There are, in this story, many ways to skin a cat. And I admit, there will be others to come. But imagine a future where resources like water, grain and energy are all expensive, and limited in supply. Imagine, in this mix, a major component of the energy system, fossil fuel, becoming so expensive as to render it cost ineffective.

This is the scenario I use to examine my latest obsession - the super efficient woodfired bakery.

Stay tuned as details are revealed. This bakery will happen, and it will happen in Newcastle NSW. If you would like to stay in the loop, follow this blog!

Sunday, January 24, 2010

A Woodfired oven for the 21st Century!

I know, time passes, and the old blog gets left by the wayside. Okay, I take that on the chin - though in my defence, I have been busy. Very busy.

And yes, it's right on subject. A woodfired oven for the 21st century! I kid you not...I know, woodfired ovens lend themselves to rustic, old world charm and all that. I've worked in woodfired bakeries, and my experience was all about authenticity, not efficiency..

But that's about to change. Dramatically.

The thing is, woodfired ovens were overlooked in the industrial revolution. Once gas and electricity became 'online', t
he idea of wood fire became obsolete quite quickly. I guess nobody wanted them anymore. They were hard work, and difficult to get consistency of product. No wonder they went the way of the dinosoar..

In the back blocks of regional Australia, though, a number of the old Scotch ovens were retained - and some of those bakeries can still be found, often by accident. I stumbled upon my last one some years ago in Nabiac, NSW. I'm not sure if it's still there now, but the bakery at that time made the same classic country breads and meat pies you could find at any country town in Western or Northern NSW.
There are also places where aspiring Artisan bakers have spotted the potential of the old wood fired bakery, and despite the commercial imperatives necessary like population, have dived in and embraced the rustic life of the village baker.

Many of these 'tree change bakeries' have gone on to become successful businesses. Some, sadly, have a decent go at the twelve and fourteen hour days necessary to properly run a woodfired bakery, but eventually arrive at the decision to move on. The financial rewards are just too hard to achieve when the town has moved away.

But a unifying feature is the work. Firing up a woodfired oven takes energy and time. You need to fill it in order to get the oven to work properly too, so you need to make sure that you have a fair chance of finding paid homes for all that bread.

This challenge, to sell all the bread, turns a lot of dreams to dust.

I've been chatting to a mob from Bathurst NSW. These guys, Aromatic Embers, design, make and sell what I consider to be a workable woodfired baker's oven, though their product range didn't extend to the capacity and quality that a commercial bakery would require. They had built ovens for a baker before, but with mixed results.

Here's their web address:
www.aromaticembers.com

From years of working with ovens of all shapes and sizes, I could see that there were ways to improve upon their existing design, good though it is. After many long discussions with Craig, who drafts the designs, we came up with a design which was not only capable of putting through about a hundred loaves per hour, it was also able to be brought to baking temperature using minimal wood. With a whole lot of tweaking, Craig thinks he'll be able to get the oven to hold an optimum temperature for baking for a long while.

Thus, a super efficient woodfired oven for the 21st century! Not only that, but we think we'll be able to generate huge volumes of hot water while the oven is operating, lending it to other efficient uses like providing hot water for the whole bakery, or driving an electricity turbine. Seriously!

So, my business partners and I are about to stump up thousands of dollars to commission one of these things being built. It appears as though the baking bug is biting us all hard...

Stay tuned. There is a whole lot to talk about in upcoming posts!
If you want to read my article about building this very special oven
, follow the link!
Building Bertha