Tuesday, January 20, 2009
The Mother of all Bread
The thing about Sourdough which makes it unique is the Starter it is made from. Some call this the Mother, the Ferment, the Leaven, and many other terms. There is even a yeast identified called the 'SanFransiscan Lactobacillus' or something...I'd actually love to give my own Starter a name, because it's been around for over 20 years so far, and I know it not as a thing but as a person. I could call it 'Aussie', because it's got a bit of our national character about it. Certainly, it eats, sleeps, multiplies and produces stuff, just like we all do. I've referred to Starter in past articles as a pet which lives in your fridge, and for good reason - if you don't look after it, it will turn on you. Beware. But if it's well fed and housed, it will be an eternal thing which could live longer than you do. Oh, and it also helps you to make great tasting sourdough breads!
I love all these different terms used to describe a Sourdough Leaven. Being an Aussie, I'll just refer to it as 'Starter' from now on, because that's what it does - it 'Starts' the dough on the process of rising, which is essential to making any bread edible.
The Story of My Sourdough Starter
My Starter has been infused with some of the greats over the past 20 years, including an Egyptian yeast that's over 2000 years old, a 'Cowboy' yeast (which is what the 'San Fransiscan' I mentioned earlier would have come from), as well as one of the original Australian Sourdough Bakers own ferments, by a guy called John Downes. But in the main, I raised it myself from scratch and fed it regularly. It's lived in many locations with many different bloodlines - I've incorporated the above starters into my own as a kind of 'cultural exchange', and in the process I've discovered it's tough, this baby - you just can't kill it. It seems the older they get, the stronger they become. Even if I haven't fed mine for weeks, it'll come back to life within hours by just feeding it some flour and water.
Of course, I worked this starter commercially for about fifteen years - for many years I had it running to over 100 kg a day in terms of volume. It's had every grain known to man in there to feed it, especially wheat, rye, spelt, rice, millet, corn, oats and barley, as well as some fruits too - mainly raisins and sultanas. Nowadays I use it at home when I need to make bread, but versions of it can be found in many bakeries and homes around the world, in cities such as Berlin, Tokyo, New York, Ohio, Sydney, Colorado, Gosford, LA, Melbourne, Dublin, and even Lawson (which really doesn't qualify as a city, but it's here nonetheless).
Feeding and Keeping a Starter - Overview
A Starter can be fed on anything that will ferment - essentially carbohydrate. I've found that a varied diet will change the qualities, textures and flavours the Starter produces in the breads you make. If consistentcy is desired, feed it the same thing all the time. It will cope. However, a varied diet breeds different microbiologies, and I believe variation breeds resilience too. That's why mine has continued to thrive - it has had various conditions throughout its life, and thus has become strong despite changes, rather than because of sameness. The same could be said for people - the most successful have had a variety of inputs and locations, and thus they thrive and are strong.
A lot of people struggle to establish a starter. Many others simply can't keep them going for very long. It has to be said that in the early stages, starter requires committment, time and patience. For those without an abundance of these things, I will soon be manufacturing a dried version of my own starter,which for many people will be a better and easier option from a practical point of view. But for those who want to give it a go, read on as I go into detail.
If you would like to read more about Sourdough Starter, as well as recipes and other Tips and Tricks, have a look at my website at:
Sunday, January 18, 2009
In this blog, I'm going to show you how to make sensational sourdough bread at home, without the use of machines or chemicals. You can make these breads very cheaply, and they are clean, quick and easy to do. They will prove their worth every time, because they simply taste better than anything you might have tried elsewhere. Not only that, but the more you do this method, the better the bread gets. I'm serious!
Many years ago I discovered that bread didn't have to be bland and boring. I already knew that it didn't have to be white and square either - it's just that at that time Australians, (and from what I can tell this also applies to Americans and the Englishtoo) tended towards doughy white squares as a staple wrapping for all else that constituted food.
Thankfully, all that has changed now, and interesting breads are available in all shapes and forms from just about anywhere. The way we use bread has also changed, with a more international approach helping to keep it interesting.
However, while there are a plethora of bread styles to choose from, it's hard to get away from the fact that most commercially made breads are compromises. What I mean by this is that despite our efficient transport systems, our clever marketing and manufacturing methods, our 'global villages' and our ability to faithfully copy the classic bread styles, most breads come out of a factory days if not weeks before we consume them. Then they are packaged, travel hundreds if not thousands of kilometers to get to us, are shuffled around on supermarket shelves until they are sold (or disposed of to become, in most cases, landfill, or at best compost). Despite all this internationalisation, it's still hard (and costly) to have fresh, inexpensive and tasty bread which is produced to order, fresh and vibrant and delicious.
I spent fifteen years devising and perfecting all kinds of amazing breads. I admit freely that it was my passion, and it took over every waking (and often sleeping) minute of my time. My bakery over these years produced many millions of exquisite breads, which found their way into people's homes and hearts over that time. I perfected many sourdough and other recipes, which remain in use commercially to this day - my methods are used both in Australia and internationally for the simple reason that they are simple, natural, and they work well every time.
Stay tuned and you will be richly rewarded. If you would like to know more about some of these methods in detail, go to my website, www.sourdoughbaker.com.au.